El Calafate and the Glaciers

Greetings from El Calafate, Argentina!

Slowly moving north along the east side of the Andes mountains, trying to see the highlights without the guided trips available everywhere, or the 'classic' hikes in specific parks many people are here for. One could spend a month in this area alone to see all there is to see--hike all there is to hike. so many of the trekkers here rush in and out. I bump into them now and again as we complete our respective accomplishments.

The bike is running better now that the dust was cleaned out of the air filter. Major collection from the 3200 miles ridden thus far.

Interesting aspects of this bike´s sound are:

all children turn to wave

all adults turn to see what is coming

all dogs in town start to howl and those that are loose start to chase me

all wildlife, and livestock, turn away and run

Does anyone else have this attraction problem with the KLR?

The dogs in El Calafate are mostly off leash and fend for themselves....show it in their leanness.....a friendly lot willing to walk with you a ways in hopes of a hand out. They have their territory and stop at the edge to pick up the next person headed the opposite direction. One fellow followed me to the hostel, dug a hole in the sand and napped while I worked on the bike. He left to chase another canine away.

As you would expect, the east side of the Andes is arid. Trees start in drainages closer to the mountains (beech, fir) and climb until alpine elevation. There is better wind protection this close to the mountain´s east slope...no 300ks to build speed.

The area is known for it´s access to Parque Nacional Los Glaciers and the Glacier Moreno. I spent the whole day observing the sun play across the field of jagged ice blue ridges and waiting for ice falls. The clouds prevented any huge calving but the show was still spectacular. The advancing glacier is 1.5 ks wide and 100 meters high...quite a sight!

I move north on Ruta 40 on the 28th and will stop where it looks good and where the energy runs out. There are long distances between stops here and gas must be planned. That base is covered with ten extra liters.

Hope all are well.

Paul