
Buenos Aires couple biking the Ruta 40, hat's off to them!
In Cave of the Hands near Bajo Caracoles, Arg.
Ruta 7, Chile
The last two nights I have been in San Carlos de Bariloche, Arg. Beautiful multi-level city on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi. Very beautiful place known for its chocolate and year-round out door activities.
My goal here, besides the chocolate, was to do some work on the bike. Ruta 40 road conditions are not kind to anything mechanical. So the oil and filter were changed, a new back tire purchased, all nuts tightened and an effort to improvise a saddle bag clamp was made. One fell off on R40 and they are not an off the shelf thing being off-centered milled aluminum. The mill wright in town was gone so I will continue to improvise.
I left Calafate on Ruta 40, had a look at Chaltan and continued north. The pavement ended at Tres Lagos (last gas) with an 8 inch drop onto 6 inch loose rock and a very rutted road surface from rain and traffic. As I slowed to look for fuel and maneuvered the bike through this tough surface a huge gust of wind blew me over! No damage done and priority one became the next ten feet in front of the tires not where I end up for the night. Road conditions were very bad for 10 miles...first gear...then the surface improved slightly all the way to Bajo Caracoles (first gas). 420 miles in 11 hours, but the hostel in BC was great and I met some nice folks. Two Arg. bikers (on Honda shadows) showed up 3 hours after me...we met on the outskirts of Calafate.
Then more gravel to Perito Moreno and a country change with a night in Chile Chico,Chile. Great little town.....a one bank sort of place. Caught the ferry across Largo Buenos Aries to ride Chile 7 ( the Astral) north. More dirt but in better condition and winding through the rain forest of coastal Chile. Hanging glaciers, vegetation next to the road, many lakes, small towns. Most of this area was settled by Germans in the early 30´s.
Spent the night in Fulateufu....wonderful town known for its white water opportunities. Had the best meal of the trip there...fettuchini de letche camaron and home made helado. All for 13 us.
So now it will be north again on Ruta 40 to get above Santiago before leaving Arg. for the coast.
Hope all are well,
Paul
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